The Drapers Power 100 lists those in UK fashion retail who have left the biggest mark on the industry. This year, leadership of the biggest players has remained largely stable. However, the bosses of several mid-sized businesses have disappeared from the list.
We have also added a sustainability section for the first time, in recognition of the growing awareness of the environmental and social impact of fashion retail.
The list was selected by the Drapers editorial team using criteria including trading performance and the individual’s personal influence on the industry.
THE TOP 10
Paul Marchant
CEO, Primark
It was a year of celebration for Primark in 2019: the value retailer marked its 50th year of trading, CEO Paul Marchant his 10th anniversary at its helm and it scooped a hat-trick of trophies at the Drapers Awards in November.
Fast fashion empire Boohoo Group has had a big year. The owner of Boohoo, Nasty Gal and PrettyLittleThing bought premium womenswear brands Karen Millen and Coast out of administration and rival fast fashion brand MissPap.
Knowing its customer and its place in the market has allowed Peter Cowgill’s JD Sports Fashion group to thrive while its rivals struggle in a tough environment.
Retail mogul Mike Ashley was never far from the headlines in 2019, which included admitting in July that problems at House of Fraser were “nothing short of terminal in nature”. He also sought, but failed, to buy its struggling rival Debenhams, and had greater success with preppy young fashion chain Jack Wills, which he bought in August.
Pablo Isla’s Inditex defied the retail doom and gloom once again in 2019, delivering another record performance. Following a summer dominated by Zara’s ubiquitous “spotty dress”, sales at the group were up 7% year on year in the six months to 31 July, reaching €12.8bn (£11.4bn).
Simon Forster became managing director at the retail arm of Selfridges in February. Under his leadership, the luxury department store continues to innovate with its digital offer and store experiences, including the opening of a three-screen in-store cinema in November.
The ever-outspoken Lord Simon Wolfson raised his head above the parapet again this year on matters pertinent to the industry, namely retail rents, which he said were unsustainably high.
Bernard Arnault is a constant at French luxury group LVMH, owner of luxury brands including Celine, Louis Vuitton and Dior. In July, it acquired a minority stake in British brand Stella McCartney, and in November it bought iconic US jeweller Tiffany & Co for €14.7bn (£12.6bn).
Innovation has been on the agenda at German etailer Zalando. In October, it outlined a new sustainability strategy including going carbon neutral across its own operations, deliveries and returns; eliminating single-use plastics; and for 20% of its gross merchandise volume to comprise more sustainable products by 2023.
If there is one name that grabbed the attention of the industry this year, it was Daniel Lee, creative director of Kering-owned luxury Italian brand Bottega Veneta. The 33-year-old British born designer joined Bottega Veneta as creative director in June 2018, taking over from Tomas Maier.
From Primark’s Paul Marchant opening the world’s biggest store in Birmingham to Mike Ashley snapping up Jack Wills and vying for control of Debenhams, the Power 100 begins with those who have exerted the biggest influence on the high street in 2019. Showing unwavering leadership, these retailers are aggressively opening stores and buying rivals. Some have navigated a stormy year better than others, but the industry continues to watch their every move.
For this category, retailers are recognised for driving steady growth in their mid-sized businesses, despite tough trading conditions. Some are expanding in the UK and internationally, while others are introducing new product categories or focusing on improving their digital offer. They are leading in their corner of the market and building strong reputations.
Getting the brand story and product mix right is no easy feat in a market where consumer demands are evolving at an increasingly rapid pace. Here we shine a light on those retailers that have been successfully capturing their niche by selling a set lifestyle choice to their customers, to provide a point of difference and stand out in the crowded mid-market.
A new category for this year, these strategy maestros are responsible for 2019’s most successful turnarounds. All have shown a shrewd approach to return their respective businesses to growth, and are not afraid to trim the fat and refocus their propositions. The list spans young fashion heroes, lifestyle heavyweights and digital natives who have utilised their expertise to bring some positive news into the industry this year.
These figures lead businesses with keen pricing and high volumes that do not compromise on style and innovation. Clothing is big business for supermarkets, who face a race to the bottom on food prices. This pressure means the value leaders are having to stay ahead of the curve, offering a more appealing customer experience and exploring new sales channels.
Engines of innovation, these pureplay specialists are leading lights in the retail sector. From acquiring new businesses, experimenting with different models and introducing ambitious sustainability strategies, these retailers have continued to drive the industry forward. The list spans fast fashion empires, international giants and luxury powerhouses.
All have made their mark on fashion over the past 12 months.
Engines of innovation, these pureplay specialists are leading lights in the retail sector. From acquiring new businesses, experimenting with different models and introducing ambitious sustainability strategies, these retailers have continued to drive the industry forward. The list spans fast fashion empires, international giants and luxury powerhouses.
All have made their mark on fashion over the past 12 months.
The retailers in this category are leading lights in the world of luxury. Online or in stores, each entrant stood out in 2019 for taking an innovative approach to the sector. Some are historical businesses that have thundered into the modern age or fast-growing new names seeking to disrupt the sector and provide a new take on luxury. Either way, these luminaries have ideas to know.
These brand houses have embraced innovation to withstand fierce competition. As the retail landscape continues to change at rapid speed, the businesses in this category have moved with it. New digital initiatives and pioneering retail approaches have kept them one step ahead, while they champion sustainability at an international level.
From luxury leaders to outerwear specialists, this category’s brand house behemoths packed the biggest punch in 2019.
The creative class of 2019 are the names that defined fashion this year – from outstanding catwalk collections to sell-out products, they set the trends and defined the direction of the industry across men’s and women’s wear, footwear and accessories. The list features star designers leading fashion’s biggest businesses, but also independent brands and smaller, emerging names whose impact and influence were felt in the last 12 months.
Fashion brands, retailers and suppliers are investing more in sustainability each year, as the commercial imperative to become more responsible grows. The following pioneers have led the sustainability revolution from the front this year. Including luxury houses, innovative newcomers, government leaders and teenage thought-changers, this list demonstrates how wide reaching the industry’s sustainability needs to be to drive change.
It is safe to say fashion brands and retailers have not had the easiest of years in 2019. However, the nine brands below have proven that the right strategy and business acumen can still
go a long way in today’s market, as they captured shoppers’ attention through product innovation, and pioneering digital and sustainability developments. They are truly having “a moment”.
This section celebrates the leaders behind the emerging businesses making waves in the industry. All have continued to grow apace in 2019, whether they have experienced soaring sales, expanded their headquarters or explored untapped markets. Each entrepreneur has created a unique proposition that perfectly appeals to their target consumer. These are the businesses to watch.
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